How to make good mashed potato

Choose a floury or all-purpose potato sold as suitable for mashing. Peel it if you prefer smooth mash, then cut the potatoes into reasonably even pieces so they cook at the same rate.

Start in cold water

Put the potatoes in a saucepan and cover them with cold water. Bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer gently. Starting in cold water helps the centres cook before the outsides become waterlogged.

Check and drain

After about 15–20 minutes, test a piece with a table knife or fork. It should slide in easily and the potato should feel completely tender. Drain well in a colander, then return the potatoes to the warm pan for a minute or two so excess steam can escape.

Mash gently

Mash while the potatoes are hot. Stop once no obvious lumps remain: repeated vigorous mixing can make the potato gluey. Add butter and a little warm milk gradually when the recipe calls for them, stopping when the texture is soft rather than wet.

For fishcakes or another mixture that needs to hold its shape, leave out the milk and butter unless the recipe says otherwise. Season to suit the finished dish, remembering that sauces, cheese or fillings may already contain salt.

Recipes using this guide

• Crispy Fishcakes
• Simple Fish Pie